Barcelona: Unraveling Charms and Struggles Through a Native Lens
Let’s find out with David Jou Bueno
Discovering a city's true essence requires a local touch—insights from those who call it home, who understand its traditions and secrets intimately.
Barcelona, a city synonymous with artistic grandeur and boundless vitality, is a treasure trove of experiences waiting to be unearthed. To truly delve into its heartbeat, there's no better guide than a passionate local who has lived and breathed the city's essence. I had the privilege of conversing with David Jou Bueno, a true-blue Catalonian born in Tarragona and being an astute connoisseur of Barcelona's allure.
With 32 years of life's journey behind him, David's academic pursuits led him to the University of Barcelona for sociology studies, followed by a master's in pedagogy and a deep dive into political philosophy at Universitat Pompeu Fabra.
But his journey wasn't confined to Spain. He embraced Russia, teaching Spanish in Nizhny Novgorod and St. Petersburg while learning Russian. Today, he proudly imparts his knowledge by teaching Catalan to international learners.
Our conversation was an immersive journey into the city's soul, unveiling hidden gems, debunking stereotypes, and addressing the challenges that come hand-in-hand with the influx of tourism.
Urban Parrot: David, as a true Catalonian and an expert on Barcelona, could you suggest where a first-time visitor should head if they have just 2 days to explore the city?
David Jou Bueno: For sure! I'd recommend starting with a leisurely stroll from the Fontana metro station to the seafront. It's about a 30-40 minute walk that lets you discover the Gracia district, which evolved from a small village into part of the city's fabric. From Gracia, head down Gran de Gracia Street along the iconic Passeig de Gracia boulevard, once the epicenter of bourgeoisie life. Here, you'll find gems like Casa Mila and Casa Batllo by Antoni Gaudi. Afterwards, you'll reach Plaça de Catalunya, the country's symbolic heart, hosting the monument of Catalonia's president, Francesc Macià. Continue onto La Rambla, although locals tend to avoid it due to crowds and touristy shops. But veer off, and you'll discover Plaça Sant Jaume with the city hall and Generalitat de Catalunya, as well as educational institutions and the Barcelona Museum of Contemporary Art (MACBA). Just a note, don't dine or drink on La Rambla—it's better elsewhere.
UP: To be honest, we expected suggestions beyond La Rambla because it’s somewhat of a cliché! It feels like even if someone were blindfolded on their first visit to Barcelona, they’d inevitably end up on La Rambla!
David: Interestingly, there's more to it. There's Font de Canaletes, where FC Barcelona fans celebrate victories. A simple drinking fountain, it once neighbored a sports newspaper, displaying match results from its balcony a century ago. People gathered here as TVs and radios were scarce. And to this day, winning games draw crowds to celebrate. Continuing down La Rambla, you'll spot the Liceu theater building and ultimately, the sea!
UP: Speaking of clichés, there's one more—the influence of Antoni Gaudí. Despite his brilliance, isn't he just one facet of Barcelona's story?
David: Gaudí? He's Barcelona's main protagonist! He reshaped the city, an accomplishment reserved for only a few architects. Moreover, he transformed the city's ambiance. Mention Barcelona, and it's synonymous with Sagrada Familia, Casa Mila, Casa Batllo, and Park Güell—a fantastic impact! He was immensely creative and dared to do what he desired, well, within the bounds of the bourgeoisie. Witnessing one individual revolutionize a city, essentially all of Catalonia, is awe-inspiring. Generally, Barcelona exudes the bourgeoisie's architectural influence. Gaudí's masterpieces, alongside others like Liceu and Palau de la Música, weren't funded by taxpayers but by the bourgeoisie, craving self-expression and elegance. Barcelona's a freer city than, say, Madrid—focused on living rather than preserving power as a capital.
UP: David, tell us about how Barcelona, a free capital, commemorates its main holiday—the National Day of Catalonia?
David: It's quite paradoxical—it's not so much a celebration. Instead, it's a day of remembrance—marking the time when the Bourbons first set foot in Barcelona, stripping Catalonia of its independence and imposing the initial ban on the Catalan language. In the years following, people in Barcelona mainly took to the streets in protest. Interestingly, during one of these September 11th protests, Antoni Gaudí attended a church service dedicated to the memory of Catalonia's lost independence and was detained for addressing a police officer in Catalan. For him, language and culture held profound significance, exemplified by the fact that everything in Sagrada Familia is written in Gaudí's native tongue.
UP: Aren’t you tired of tourists? Local resentment toward their numbers has been a pressing topic for years. It's a double-edged sword—a nuisance but also income.
David: Look. For example, in El Carmel, Bunkers offers a superb viewpoint. A decade ago, it was tranquil, a hyped spot to show foreign friends, but now it's the most photographed place. The city now fences it off to curb noise for residents. Is this beneficial for them? But it doesn't mean we're disinterested in hosting guests. Barcelona's a dynamic, multicultural city. The issue is that tourism can dilute a city's soul, leaving only façades. It's transforming into a beautiful but empty city, almost losing its identity. We have less genuine local life and more theatrics for tourists. Prices soar not just for housing but in stores, and youth move to nearby towns.
UP: We reckon such issues affect any tourist city, but life without travel is unimaginable. Let's respect each other's interests, cherish our beloved cities, and rejoice in their continued allure!
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